During archaeological excavations in the territory of Kvemo Kartli, grape pods were found, which according to the old calendar belong to the VII-VI millennia and date back to the Eneolithic period. The pods found in Anaklia's Dikha-Gudzuba were dated to the 6th-5th millennia BC, as a result of which it was confirmed that even in the Neolithic period, both East and West Georgia were familiar with grapevine culture and it played a large role in the economic life of ordinary people. Today, we will start with the most popular and the Worlds favorite, #1 Saperavi -
meaning “something to color with,” or “to dye,” is Georgia’s leading red grape variety. A very old variety, it is Georgia’s most widely planted red grape, with 10% of all plantings throughout the country (over 4000 ha). Saperavi can be dry, semi-sweet, full-on sweet, or fortified.
Both traditional and European methods are used, and it may be aged in French, American, Slavonian, Russian, or Hungarian oak. Regardless of how produced, this tenturier variety gives wines that are inky, often fully opaque, with aromas of dark berries, licorice, grilled meat, tobacco, chocolate and spices. Texturally, the wine is sappy and tannic, with considerable acidity; alcohol levels can range 12-14%. The aromas are terroir-sensitive: cooler regions with cool mountain breeze influence, red berries dominate the fruit character and the wines show more elegance; warmer regions, with darker soils, further the mountains, have more black fruit and meaty notes, with higher alcohol levels. The diversity of clones and varities of Saperavi attests to the ancient nature of the grape. Ampelographers studying Saperavi over 150 years have discussed at least 17 variations and clones. Many have colorful, evocative names (e.g. Saperavi Budeshuriseburi, lit. “Saperavi with prolonged berries.” In 2012 N. Tsertsvadze alone lists 7 seven different variations of this version and, characterizes S. Budeshuriseburi as a mutant of Saperavi.) Typically the variants were interplanted in small numbers with common, Kakhetian Saperavi. Leading PDOs based on Saperavi include Napareuli (dry), Mukuzani (dry, often with riper, more intense flavors); and Kindzmarauli (semi-sweet, but with crisp, fresh acidity). The area of Akhasheni, in Kakheti, has a decent concentration of older vines that can produce complex, dynamic and age-worthy expressions of Saperavi. When vinified dry, concentrated, serious efforts merit extended (10-year+) aging. Semi-sweet wines such as PDO Kindzmarauli and PDO Akhasheni are intended for early enjoyment, usually within 1-2 years of bottling. According to the 2004 census, there were 3704 hectares of Saperavi vineyards in Georgia.
#2 Takveri This red grape, evocatively named “hammerhead,” for the flat top of the berry itself, is indigenous to Kartli but also grown in Kakheti. Tavkveri grows well in deep clay and sandy soils. Its flowers are completely functionally female and therefore must be planted nearby other varieties such as Chinuri or Goruli Mtsvane to ensure pollination. Tavkveri can bud the end of March through middle April, and matures any the end of August through the middle of September. A vigorous vine and high yielding, its bunches are big and compact with broad shou
lders; the grapes are round, somewhat large, and dark blue. Tavkveri is highly susceptible to the downy mildew pathogen, European grapevine moths, and spider mites. In rainy autumns, grey mold is a serious threat.
Tavkveri is produced both in modern and qvevri styles; modern production may include time in oak barrels. A reasonably versatile variety, it can be an attractive, middle-weight dry red, rosé, sparkling, fortified or dessert wine. Regardless of the wine style, the attractive variety exhibits bright cherry and herbal flavors buttressed with darker, earthy flavors. Tavkveri is also enjoyed as a table grape. There were 29 hectares planted as of 2004.
#3 Mujuretuli
Literally, “ Mujureti,” Mujuretuli is, with Aleksandrouli, best known as forming the other half of the cult partnership that is Khvanchkara. Recent research shows them to be two distinct varieties with a common ancestor; Maghradze hypothesizes that Mujuretuli originated in Racha with Alexsandrouli a
s a variation. Like its relative, it is largely cultivated along the Rioni River in western Georgia, in the Ambrolauri and Tsageri districts. Monovarietal plantings of Mujuretuli are rare; it is mostly interplanted with Aleksandrouli in limestone and carbonate rocky soils.
A relatively vigorous vine, Mujuretuli’s conical, winged bunches are of medium size and can be quite loose. The medium-sized berry is dark blue and oval, and can be rather long. Budburst is mid-April with maturity in early October. Mujuretuli is highly susceptible to downy mildew and sensitive to powdery mildew; like Aleksandrouli, it is both frost and drought resistant. There were 58 hectares of Mujuretuli reported in 2004, all in the Ambrolauri district of Racha-Lechkhumi.
#4 Usakhelouri
Literally, the “grape with no name,” Usakhelouri is indigenous to western Georgia. Early 20th century historian Javakhishvili noted it was name for a village of the same name that was located on the right bank of the Lakanuri River in Lechkhumi. It is also known by the name Okureshuli, for a different small village (also in Lechkhumi). Some of the vine’s characteristics – very small berries, unequal berry size, uneven ripening, have led some to theorize that the vine is botanically and genetically similar to the wild vines of the area. Most plantings of Usakhelouri remain in Lechkhumi, though there have been recent plantings in Kakheti. Usakhelouri vines in Imereti were largely grubbed up in the late Soviet period.
Usakhelouri produces best on loamy, calcareous hillsides such as those in Racha-Lechkhumi. The leaves typically have three distinct lobes. Bunches are medium-sized and dense, more cylindrical than conical, occasionally winged. Berries are round and black but with a bloom that imparts a violet tinge. It buds early (in Racha-Lechkhumi, in the first ten days of April) and ripens relatively late (in the end of September). The grape skin is thin and detaches easily the flesh, but is highly susceptible to fungal diseases. ver it is planted, it can accumulate high sugars easily and retain high acidity.
Usakhelouri currently is produced both in qvevri and in neutral open-top containers, with no new wood maturation. The latter method generates a vibrant, high-toned nose of lilacs, violets, mint and pepper; the palate is similarly high-toned and peppery with very high acidity, light tannins and sometimes a feral note. There were 57 hectares planted as of 2004, of which 49 hectares were in the Gurjaani district of southwest Kakheti and 8 in the Tsageri district of Racha-Lechkhumi. All are family holdings.
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